You know that feeling when you run your hand over a baby’s cheek? That incredible, almost unreal softness? Well, that’s exactly what at-home dermaplaning promises . Except instead of waiting for the fountain of youth, you can get it with a simple swipe in your bathroom.
Okay, I’m not going to lie: the first time I heard about “shaving” my face, I made a funny face. But after digging into the subject and testing it myself, I can tell you that this technique is a real game-changer. Dermaplaning is much more than just removing that little fuzz that sometimes makes us self-conscious.
We’re talking about a precise gesture with a special blade that gently removes dead skin and those famous peach fuzz. The result? A complexion that glows brightly and skincare that finally penetrates properly. But be careful, there are rules to follow if you don’t want to turn your beauty routine into an obstacle course.
So, myth or miracle? How can we do it without risking disaster? And above all, does it really work? We’re going to unravel all of this together.
Table of Contents
What exactly is at- home dermaplaning ?
First of all, rest assured: we’re not talking about getting out your boyfriend’s razor! Dermaplaning is a very specific technique that comes from dermatology offices. The principle? A small, ultra-thin blade that is slid over the skin at a 45-degree angle to remove anything lingering on the surface.
Basically, you hold your skin taut with one hand and gently run the blade over it with the other. This removes the downy fluff, dead skin cells, small impurities… in short, everything that gives your complexion that dull appearance. And unlike traditional shaving, you’re not just looking to trim the hairs. You also want that exfoliation that reveals the fresh skin underneath.
At first, this practice was reserved for professionals. Now, there are kits adapted for home use with less aggressive but still effective blades. The trick is that it requires a minimum of technique. Don’t panic, it can be learned! But you need to know the right moves to avoid making mistakes.
The difference with a scrub? Here, we really work on a mechanical level, layer by layer. It’s more precise, and the results are more immediate.
Why does it work so well?
Honestly, the first time I tried it, I was skeptical. Then I looked at my skin in the mirror afterward… wow! It was like someone had buffed my face. Everything looked smoother, brighter.
The secret is to remove that invisible barrier that dulls your complexion. You know, those dead micro-cells that accumulate and that almost transparent fuzz that still captures the light in a strange way. Once it’s gone, your skin regains its natural radiance. It’s a bit like cleaning a dirty window: the difference is astounding.
But the coolest thing is what happens to your creams afterward. They finally sink in! No more seeing your overpriced serum resist the surface. Now it goes straight where it needs to go. The result: you feel like your products are twice as effective.
Serious studies show that active ingredient penetration increases by 25% after dermaplaning . And as a bonus, it stimulates cell renewal. Your skin goes into “regeneration” mode and produces more collagen. Not bad for a procedure that takes 10 minutes!
Makeup-wise, it’s night and day. Foundation glides on like velvet, and powders blend seamlessly. No more clinging or cakey texture. Your makeup finally looks natural and lasts much better.
How to choose the right equipment for home dermaplaning
So, beware of pitfalls! Not all tools are created equal, and believe me, this isn’t the time to cut corners. I tried several brands before finding what I wanted.
For blades, aim for quality stainless steel. No, cheap disposable versions are a no-no! They dull too quickly and can even injure you. I prefer curved blades that fit the contours of your face. They’re easier for beginners.
The handle is also important. It must fit comfortably in your hand, even with slightly damp fingers. Forget about models that are too light or too slippery. You want something stable that gives you confidence.
Complete kits are often worth it to get started. You suddenly have everything: several blade sizes, a good handle, sometimes even a magnifying glass to help you see more clearly. And economically, it’s usually more attractive than buying everything separately.
Don’t forget the extras! A solution to disinfect the blades (70% alcohol works very well), a light oil to help the blade glide, and a good soothing treatment for afterward. These little details make all the difference between a successful session and a failure.
Replacement question: as soon as the blade catches a little or you feel it pull, it’s finished. A dull blade is dangerous and ineffective. Allow 3 to 5 uses max depending on the quality.
The technique that changes everything
Okay, now we get down to business. Home dermaplaning is a bit like learning to ride a bike: it’s scary at first, but then it becomes second nature. But there are certain steps you need to follow.
First, clean. Not just a quick rinse, eh! A proper cleanse with your usual product to remove makeup, cream, pollution… anything that’s lingering. Dry by gently patting, never rubbing.
Next, the oil. I use jojoba oil, but sweet almond oil works very well too. Just a few drops so the blade glides smoothly without snagging. Not too much or you won’t see anything!
Now for the moment of truth. Keep your skin taut (this is crucial!), hold your blade at a 45-degree angle, and use short, even strokes. Always go with the grain, never against it. Start with the cheeks; it’s easier, before tackling delicate areas like the nose.
Pressure? Light but firm. Imagine you’re peeling a very ripe peach. Too hard and you damage it. Not enough and it’s useless. You have to find the right balance.
Clean the blade after each stroke to prevent buildup. And above all, take your time! 15 minutes of concentration is better than a botched session that ends badly.
Finally, gently cleanse and moisturize generously. Your skin has just suffered a minor (controlled) assault; it needs comfort.
Home Dermaplaning: Mistakes That Can Ruin Everything
So that’s the paragraph I wish I’d read before my first attempts! Because yes, I made some mistakes at the beginning. I might as well spare you my troubles.
Mistake number one: trying to dermaplane irritated skin. I had a small pimple on my chin, and I thought, “Okay, it’ll go away.” The result: guaranteed inflammation and a scar that took weeks to disappear. Now, whenever there’s the slightest problem with my skin, I wait for it to heal completely.
Second trap: overdose. The initial results are so impressive that you want to start again right away. Big mistake! Once a week at most, or even every two weeks if you have sensitive skin. Otherwise, irritation is guaranteed, and your skin will end up taking revenge.
The angle of the blade is also crucial. Too vertical, and you risk cutting yourself. Too flat, and it’s useless. Those famous 45 degrees are non-negotiable. At first, practice in front of the mirror without touching your skin to clearly visualize the angle.
And then there’s the pitfall of the rotten blade. A blade that pulls or snags is a sure recipe for disaster. Don’t hesitate to change them often; keeping them for too long is a false economy.
Last classic mistake: skipping aftercare. Your skin is raw and needs extra protection. Sunscreen is a must for several days, even if you’re not going outside. And temporarily avoid all harsh products: acids, retinol, perfumes, etc.
Let’s sort out the truth from the lies once and for all.
Okay, let’s talk a little, but let’s talk the truth. There’s so much bullshit out there about dermaplaning that it’s becoming ridiculous! So let’s set the record straight.
The classic: “If you shave your downy hair, it will grow back thicker!” Now, I want to say: since when did physics come into being? Cutting a hair doesn’t change its structure at all. The hair follicle remains exactly the same. This story is just an optical illusion: freshly cut hair has a straight end that can appear thicker than the natural, tapered tip.
Experts are adamant about this. No study has ever shown any changes in hair after shaving. Your peach fuzz will remain peach fuzz, period. This fear probably stems from our grandmothers who confused it with the effects of tweezing or waxing.
Another persistent myth: dermaplaning is addictive. Like, your skin can’t live without it and will turn horrible if you stop. This is completely false! If you stop, your skin simply returns to its previous state, no better and no worse. It’s like stopping exercise: you lose the benefits, but you don’t become weaker than before you started.
As for age, there’s no hard and fast rule either. As soon as the downy hair appears (usually around 16-18 years old), you can start. Of course, you have to be responsible and do your research beforehand. But there’s no magic age limit of 25 or 30, as some people claim.
Home or salon dermaplaning : the match
So, the big question: is it better to do this at home or head to the beautician? I’ve tried both, and each has its advantages.
In a salon, it’s total luxury. The beautician knows her stuff perfectly, the environment is spotless, and it usually comes with a complete treatment. You leave with baby-soft skin and the feeling of having been pampered. The problem? The price! Expect to pay between 60 and 120 euros per session, depending on where you go. Over the course of a year, that adds up quickly.
Plus the practical constraints: making appointments, traveling, sometimes waiting… When you have a minister’s schedule, it’s complicated.
Home dermaplaning is the opposite. Once you have your kit (50 euros max for good equipment), each session costs you practically nothing. You can do it whenever you want, in your pajamas if you like. And there’s something satisfying about mastering the technique yourself.
The downside? You have to learn, accept that your first attempts won’t be perfect, and take responsibility if things go wrong. But frankly, with a minimum of precautions, the risks are limited.
My advice? Start with one or two sessions at a salon to see how it goes and learn the right techniques. Then switch to the at-home version once you’re comfortable. The best of both worlds!
Boost the effects with the right care
Home dermaplaning is great, but it would be a shame to stop there! There are plenty of little tips to maximize the benefits and make the results last.
First instinct after each session: moisturize thoroughly! Your skin has just lost its protective layer, it’s thirsty. Get out your best creams, those with hyaluronic acid, ceramides… anything that retains water. And don’t be shy about the quantity for the first few days.
This is also THE time to use your most expensive serums. You know, the ones you save because they cost an arm and a leg? Well, now they’ll finally be able to show off what they can do! Vitamin C in the morning, peptides at night… they’ll penetrate like never before.
Sun protection becomes vital after dermaplaning . Your skin is thinner and more sensitive to UV rays. Even on gray days, even if you’re only going out to get some bread: sunscreen is a must! SPF 30 minimum, and don’t forget to reapply during the day.
Temporarily avoid anything that could irritate. Your usual acids, your retinol, even your micellar water if it stings a little… put all of that aside for 48 hours. Your skin needs to recover slowly.
A little bonus technique: the famous facial massage. Gua sha, jade roller, or simply your hands… it activates circulation and helps maintain radiance longer. I do this while watching Netflix in the evening; it’s super relaxing.
When it’s better to abstain from home dermaplaning
Okay, let’s be clear: dermaplaning isn’t for everyone, all the time. There are situations where it’s definitely not the time to play with blades on your face.
If you have active skin problems—acne, eczema, psoriasis flare-ups—forget it! You risk making things worse and ending up with even worse inflammation. Be patient, wait until everything has calmed down before resuming.
Drug treatments also change the situation. Accutane, cortisone, chemotherapy… all of these things weaken the skin. If you’re taking medication, ask your doctor first. It’s best to be cautious.
Ultra-sensitive skin should also be careful. Couperose, rosacea, frequent allergic reactions… these are all warning signs. Test first on a small, hidden area, such as behind the ear.
After laser hair removal, give yourself a break. Your skin has already suffered, so there’s no need to add to it. Allow 2 to 4 weeks depending on the intensity of the treatment.
For pregnant women , good news: there are no contraindications! Unlike some treatments, dermaplaning is purely mechanical, with no risk to the baby. Just perhaps a little more caution if your skin has become more sensitive during pregnancy.
And of course, carefully avoid any moles, recent scars, or any areas that look suspicious. Contouring is an art!
Your new beauty ritual starts now
There you have it! Home dermaplaning is no longer the mystery that used to scare you. It’s simply a fantastic technique that can truly transform your skin, provided you follow it carefully.
Remember the essentials: good equipment, gentleness, regularity without excess, and above all, listen to your skin. It will tell you if it likes it or not. And believe me, when you see the result in the mirror, you’ll understand why so many women can’t live without it.
So, are you ready to discover that smooth, luminous skin hiding beneath your downy fuzz? Your reflection in the mirror will surprise you!
