This column is dedicated to my friend Gérard Bernar, founder and passionate host of the Gourmand email service, who passed away last week after a long illness. I’m sure he would have loved for us to share this table with his wife, Michelle, as we have shared so many others. My deepest condolences to his wife, children, and loved ones.
Villa Miraé is the new name of the Impérial Garoupe, a beautiful 5-star hotel recently acquired by the Inwood Hotels group. This historic hotel, a member of Relais & Châteaux, has been transformed under the talent of architect Oscar Lucien Ono for new adventures on the French Riviera. In this version, in the heart of Mediterranean gardens, and about 100 meters from the famous Garoupe beach, this Villa comprises 35 rooms, including 8 exceptional suites, available in three color schemes, each with a private terrace. An elegant bar, an outdoor swimming pool, and a seafront solarium complete the offer.
The highlight comes from the gastronomy, entrusted to Mauro Colagreco (3 Michelin stars at Mirazur in Menton). We therefore started with the bistro (Miraé by Mauro Colagreco) which was more than pleasant, offering traditional specialties “from Genoa to Saint-Tropez” with the chef’s own contemporary touch, always with the essential local, seasonal and committed approach of the leader in circular gastronomy. Spaghetti alla Genovese, fish of the day alla Ligure, stuffed zucchini flowers, socca, Tropézienne tart… The service, led by a perfect dining room manager: Benoit, was enough to make these moments the best ever.
Amarines, the gastronomic restaurant of Mauro Colagreco
Of course, I expected more, and even much more, from the gastronomic version, Amarines. I was not disappointed, even if I was still surprised that there was no menu, only two menus: in 4 “movements” (150 $) or in six (190 $), to which were added wine suggestions. I admit that I do not subscribe to this kind of selection, avoiding mixing (And especially drinking too much: 6 glasses of 8cl (130$), which makes half a liter of alcohol!). So it was Samuel, a perfect sommelier, who chose a single wine for me for dinner, to match the 6 dishes.
Exemplary! From start to finish, from the appetizers to the petits fours. The Gamberoni di San Remo, served as carpaccio with citrus fruits and basil oil, the chef’s signature dish, made a remarkable starter, both visually and tastefully. The local asparagus sabayon with yellow wine, as well as the Camargue shellfish stew in bouillabaisse style with Sospel saffron, were no exception, both being as beautiful as they were delicious. The Aveyron veal fillet, peas and morels, potato espuma with brown butter, demonstrated that Mauro’s reputation for product selection was not lacking, the meat being of exceptional quality, the cooking absolutely perfect.
The most gourmands can add the cheese platter (Supplement: $25), the others following the rhythm of an ideal service (Thank you, Marie Elodie) to close these feasts with a light pre-dessert, followed by a Floating Island like a calisson, almonds from Provence, honey, lavender crème anglaise, a welcome sweetness. Thank you to chef Can Kurt, former disciple of Mauro who had left the Mirazur for a while to take over the kitchens of the Villa in Calvi, for having been such a faithful ambassador of the chef: everything was absolutely perfect.
So, in the mildness of a very summery evening and in an enchanting setting, we could take a little time to listen to nature. A coffee? An infusion? The conversations calm down quietly on the terrace. Let’s enjoy…
